Scottish Kilts
Scottish Kilts have been proudly worn by the people of Scotland for centuries, and they're recognized around the world as one of Scotlands' most enduring symbols. What was once an item of Scottish clothing uniquely suited to the practical needs of Highlanders, is now most often seen at ceremonies and official occasions ranging from weddings to military processions. It's not only the Scottish that can lay claim to the kilt as a form of national dress, but they're certainly the most famous... and let's face it, they look better in them too :o)
Scottish Kilts - OriginsDid you know that the kilts we're so familiar with today actually bear very little resemblance the original garments worn hundreds of years ago?The work 'kilt' likely comes from the Nordic word 'kjalta', which is first recorded back in the 9th century. However, there's some confusion over exactly how this piece of clothing evolved and from the dress of which culture, or mixture of cultures, it first grew. Centuries before the first 'Great Kilt' was seen, tribes from what is now Northern Ireland wore a tunic/shirt and a cloak. The Vikings and Romans also wore tunic type garments and robes. It's thought that the kilt may have evolved from this style of dress, being modified over time to suit the climate and lifestyle of the hardy, warlike inhabitants of the Scottish Highlands. The first Scottish Kilts were known as 'Feileigh Mor' or 'Feile-breacan' (meaning 'Great Kilt'), and are also referred to now as the 'belted plaid'. These garments were first seen during the 16th Century (but not as early as the 13th Century as shown in the movie Braveheart). The Feileigh Mor was a practical and versatile piece of clothing in most circumstances, but it could be awkward and heavy (particularly when wet). Historians believe that Highlanders often took off their kilts before charging into battle, as the tunic (or 'leine') that they wore underneath was much lighter and allowed them ease of movement.
Scottish Kilts - HistoryTraditionally the belted plaid was made from one length of a thick, wool cloth known as 'breacan' (a Gaelic word meaning speckled or partly colored). This cloth was usually about 5ft wide and could be up to 21ft long.
The material itself was as versatile as the design, and a Highlander who wanted to keep warm at night could wet the cloth and (because it was made from wool) the fibers would swell, effectively making it windproof. Over a hundred years later, around the middle of the 17th Century this early, and rather cumbersome, version of the kilt began to be replaced by the 'Feileadh Beag' (also known as the 'Philabeg'). This was basically the lower portion of the Feileigh Mor and consisted of a single (shorter) length of breacan, loosely folded, wrapped around the waist and again secured by a thick belt. It didn't feature the 'extra' cloth which was thrown over the shoulder or used as a cloak, and became known as the 'Walking Kilt'. In the 18th Century, the loose folds were widely being replaced by pleats that were sewn into the fabric, making the whole outfit much easier to wear. For a while both styles were worn by Highlanders, but over time the older Great Kilt disappeared as the Walking Kilt gained in popularity. The Scottish kilt of the era was now much more recognizable as the ancestor of todays kilt. To the proud and patriotic Highlanders, the kilt was much more than a versatile piece of clothing, it was a symbol of their heritage. Because of this, the humble kilt was outlawed by the 'Dress Act' (part of the 'Act of Proscription') imposed by King George II in 1746. This Act was passed as part of the long-standing (and generally ineffective) attempts of the British government to subdue the independent inhabitants of the Scottish Highlands. Needless to say, some Scots chose to simply ignore the ban and wore the kilt in protest. Ironically it seems that the Dress Act actually caused the Kilt to be seen as a symbol of Scottish culture and national pride, rather than just the traditional Scottish clothing worn by Highland clans.
Between this, and the great love his successor Queen Victoria had for Scotland in general, and the Highlands in particular, the English played another positive role in increasing this garments popularity! Between 1746 and 1782, although it was against the law for your average Scot to wear a kilt, armored regiments in the military were actually encouraged to do so. Their exemption from the rules of the Dress Act was used by the British Government as an incentive to get the fearless and war-like Highlanders to join the Kings' armies. These 'Highland Regiments' were then sent overseas to fight in places as far away as India and North America - effectively 'taking them out of the equation' and hopefully making Scotland (and the Scottish people) easier to control.
Scottish TartanAlthough todays' Scottish Kilts are always made from tartan fabric, and each tartan is closely identified with a particular Scottish Clan, this wasn't the case until well into the 18th Century.
Again, it was the English that began the trend towards giving different tartans specific identities and names, beginning within the army where each Highland Regiment was allocated a different tartan. So, exactly what is a Scottish Tartan, or Scottish Plaid? It's a woollen fabric that evolved from the original 'breacan', and is made up of an orderly checkered pattern, usually involving several different colors. The checkered pattern consists of colored vertical and horizontal lines, woven into the fabric to form a very distinctive pattern of lines and squares - this is known as the 'sett'. Historically, any relationship between a particular color or pattern was generally a connection to a particular geographical area or district, rather than to an individual family or Clan. However, in the 18th Century this began to change and certain guidelines and policies were set up which enabled a Clan to take 'ownership' of a specific tartan pattern/sett. In the early 19th Century (in 1815 to be exact) the first Clan tartan was registered.
If you don't have Scottish roots, or they're too convoluted for you to follow, there are plenty of more 'generic' patterns you can wear.... or you can choose absolutely any tartan that you want. You don't have to be a legally recognized 'Campbell' to wear a Campbell tartan for example.
The Scottish Kilt TodayAlthough the kilt is considered to be the national costume of Scotland, you won't see it being worn on a daily basis at the office, or in the supermarket!It's most often worn on occasions that could be considered 'ceremonial', including weddings, funerals, family parties, festivals and more. It's also worn by Highland Bands, Highland Dancers, and participants in the traditional Scottish Highland Games. Some Army regiments (and not just the British Army) also have the kilt as part of their 'dress uniform'. The last time that kilts were worn in active combat was in 1940 (early in World War II), when the Royal Highland Regiment fought against the German army. A real Scottish kilt should be tailor made to fit YOU, not bought 'off the rack'. Because of the way they fasten and fit, a kilt that isn't exactly the right size won't hang correctly - spoiling the 'look'.
If you want the truly authentic experience, there are a whole host of kilt accessories which will give you the total 'look'. These include :
What IS Worn Under Those Scottish Kilts?The age-old (and seemingly endlessly fascinating) question of what is worn under a Scotsmans' kilt is actually fairly simple.... usually nothing!
Even the Scottish regiments traditionally went without under-garments when wearing their Scottish kilts. This is likely origin of the phrase 'going commando'! Outside of the military, it's entirely a matter or personal choice whether or not a Scotsman wears anything under his kilt, but it seems that most choose to follow the traditional route. The only real exceptions to this rule are Scottish Dancers and anyone who is taking part in Highland Games. In those situations most choose to wear shorts, or other underwear, rather than shock or offend their audience :) Scotland Culture
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